Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Bohemia

The final trip of my semester abroad program was an enlightening journey through our very own host country, the Czech Republic – more specifically the country's traditional Bohemia region. There is much more to the Czech Republic than just Prague, and this trip was proof. We discovered breweries, bones, and bears, and that was just the tip of the iceberg.

The small city of Ceske Budejovice was our next destination, home of the Budweiser Budvar brewery – the other Budweiser to us Americans. In fact, Budejovice (or its German name, Budweis) is the origin of the name Budweiser, which literally translates to "from Budweis" and traditional beer has been brewed there since the 13th century. In the 1870's, Adolphus Busch introduced Bohemian-style beer to America after a trip to Czechoslovakia and dubbed it Budweiser, as well. Unfortunately, this has caused many disputes between the Czech Budweiser and the American one centered around how their beers are to be labeled in Europe and America to avoid confusion. It was my first tour of a brewery and I found it quite interesting to learn about the elixir I had developed an affection for on this trip. We were allowed to taste some fresh beer, before it had gone through certain preservation processes, and it was very delicious due to this purity.

The first stop on our whirlwind tour was the village of Kutna Hora, where we witnessed the famous Ossuary, or "bone church" as its also called. In honor of the dead, the interior is decorated lavishly with human bones. There are huge pyramids, a large coat of arms and a chandelier all made of bones. Though it seems so macabre and, perhaps in bad taste to some, I found it a wondrous example of ingenuity and creativity that beings to peel back the mysterious curtain around death. We also visited the town's lavish cathedral, unfortunately only half-finished. When the silver mines Kutna Hora ran out and literally began to undermine the village, the industry which had for so long carried the region had to be closed, leaving the builders of the cathedral with empty pockets. Even unfinished, the cathedral is still a marvelous structure dedicated to the miners that financed it's construction.

Finally we reached extraordinary river-wrapped town of Cesky Krumlov. Though slightly flooded with tourists, Cesky Krumlov retains it's Bohemian charm, but that's second to it's grand beauty. Pictures don't really do this place justice. The great palace, which has been passed around in history more than a bottle of the finest Slivovice, sits high on the hill overlooking the still completely medieval town that the Vltava river winds in-and-around. The entire place is a Unesco World Heritage site and is well deserving. Walking through the cramped streets almost felt like Venice or the villages of the Cinque Terre for their aged qualities. I enjoyed walking the streets and checking out the shops. We found a little crepe place we liked so much that we ended up visiting there all three days of our stay. The palace tour and the tour of the original Baroque theatre offered much insight into the history of the area and people who lived there. The palace moat is home to brown bears as it has been for more than 400 years per tradition. The theatre still performs original Baroque opera by faux candlelight and the ingenious stage mechanics are all original to the period. On our final day in Cesky Krumlov we took a rafting trip on the river. We were lucky to have such a perfect day and were surrounded by beautiful scenery all along the Vltava. It was a relaxing yet spectacular end to our trip and I'm so glad it was saved for last.

View of Kutna Hora

Inside the Cathedral of St. Barbara in Kutna Hora

The Budweiser Budvar Brewery

On the river Vltava near Cesky Krumlov
I just feel I should reiterate what an enlightening trip this was to see more of the Czech Republic. It really is a wonderful and charming country that's come a long way. I know it will continue to grow and develop into an an even more accomplished and influential part of the world. This country and it's people have a lot to offer. I hope to return to the Czech Republic some day.

All the best,
Trav

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